700 years of history in a single day

When Rainer Koch from the town of Greiz was engaged as the museum director, he took over the Lower Castle and the Upper Castle as a local history museum. When he explored the still unrenovated buildings, browsed through the museum magazines and archives – and took a closer look at the history of the Reuss family, he was quick to recognise the true value of the former royal residences. With strong characters such as Heinrich XXII, the family ruled the Principality of Reuss Elder Line with a firm hand for centuries. The principality covered an area of just 316.3 km² and was the smallest of the eight dominions in the territory that makes up modern-day Thuringia.

Grasping means understanding

Rainer Koch and his team worked through all the data and facts about the elder and younger lines of the House of Reuss, compared them with historical events that were happening at the same time and presented both lines in an extremely imaginative way. His aim was to bring about a lasting transfer of knowledge and for museum visitors to enjoy themselves. His approach is all about researching, perceiving and thinking for oneself. He achieves this with traditional exhibits put into a creative setting, all kinds of interactive options and texts that foster an in-depth understanding. In his museums, he does not claim any prerogative of interpretation: “everyone should have a sense of their own ability to look for and find answers. That is why guided tours do not take place very often.”

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Museum director Rainer Koch, ©Kathrin Schulz, Thüringer Tourismus GmbH

The Upper Castle – a seat of sovereign power

The castle virtually blends into the rocky plateau above Greiz on which it was originally built as a fortress. Over the centuries, the princes kept remodelling and extending their castle, leaving behind layers of history in the process. The original parts of the Upper Castle date back to the 12th century.

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Greiz Upper Castle, ©Sebastian Theilig, Tourismusverband Vogtland e.V.

Expressive artworks as a symbol of free thinking

In the entrance area, the first thing that visitors to the castle see is the Pop Art painting by the contemporary artist Moritz Götze. It shows the Heinrichs of the Reuss Elder Line – the name was passed down throughout the line and appropriately means “Ruler of the Home”. The modern work expresses the idea that the presentation of history should not be subject to rules.

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Pop art painting in the entrance area of the Upper Castle, ©Kathrin Schulz, Thüringer Tourismus GmbH

Only around three per cent of the available exhibits are shown. Occasionally something new is added, such as a magnificent pleasure garden made of icing sugar presented on the dining table in the Upper Castle – following the tradition of confectionery centrepieces at royal courts in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Hurtling through history

A lift lit up with coloured lights takes you through four eras – panels showing dates and events point the way, For example, red stands for the years 1190 to 1531 and takes you to the basement, which is characterised by arches and brick walls. You can try on iron helmets which are almost too heavy to hold. A collection of rocks from local quarries, including surprisingly glittering exhibits, will motivate you to take a closer look at the geology of the volcanic region. A collection of chamber pots will make you smile. Children think that they are soup bowls. An artfully built-in fireplace in the bower bears witness to the fact that no one like to freeze in the 13th century either. A cross-section of the castle is presented with the help of a model in a glass display case. Press the buttons and see what happens.

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Rock collection, ©Kathrin Schulz, Thüringer Tourismus GmbH

When the lift door opens at the level of the “prince’s halls”, you are sure to experience a “wow” moment: all the rooms high-ceilinged and light, Baroque stucco on the ceiling, elaborate panelling, chandeliers, an ancestral portrait gallery and a rare double chapel – it “disappeared into the wall” during building alterations.

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Double chapel in the wall, ©Kathrin Schulz, Thüringer Tourismus GmbH

Surfing on the waves of history

In one of the areas of the castle, the castle skateboard is waiting for its next ride. On a screen, a flying sword must go through as many rings as possible, controlled by your movements. Scenes of the different stages of construction of the Upper Castle are played in the background. In the small auditorium, a 3D film is show that gives insights into the experiences of the noble family. Here, you will encounter Otto Fürst von Bismarck (1815 to 1898), the first Chancellor of the German Empire, and Heinrich XXII (1846 to 1902), the last reigning prince of the Reuss Elder Line. You will find out a lot more about the latter in the Lower Castle.

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Skateboarding through 800 years of architectural history, ©Kathrin Schulz, Thüringer Tourismus GmbH

Everyday life of the princes in the Lower Castle

In the 19th century, the princely family moved into the Lower Castle. Today, the living rooms are furnished with original furniture and attractive historical tiled stones. The room containing a model of the town of Greiz from the year 1899, surrounded by walls featuring detailed manuscripts about the fascinating Heinrich XXII. A prince in the Reuss Elder Line, he was known as “Heinrich the Unruly” because of his recalcitrance with regard to political issues. In the next rooms, the exhibition gets personal: wedding stories of various princesses from the House of Reuss offer a deep insight into their individual fates. Dramatic, touching, romantic – you will find it all here. A whole series of other rooms present poems, paper theatres or toys of times gone by. Children are delighted with the longest marble run in the Vogtland, which is exhibited here.

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Greiz city model, ©Kathrin Schulz, Thüringer Tourismus GmbH

Cover picture: Sebastian Theilig, Tourismusverband Vogtland e.V.